Truffles in Dordogne, South west France

Dordogne English News (Sud-Ouest / France)

Truffles are subterranean fungi that grow from spores that attach themselves to the roots of trees. In the Dordogne the fruits of these spores, the truffles, grow in chalky soil approximately 0-15 cms below the surface, mainly in association with Oak and Hazelnut trees. Truffles reach maturity in January and February.

Truffles are elusive and appear and disappear from one season to the next. This makes them difficult to find or cultivate because you never know exactly where they will grow. The telltale sign of where truffles might be growing is a scorched- looking patch located around a tree, referred to as “brulé”. These can be from a few metres squared to tens of metres squared. Because of their unknown quantity, truffles are shrouded in mystery. This fact, coupled with their distinctive perfume that they pass on to food, makes them much sought and sold for high prices.

The “Period” truffle, the “Tuber Melanosporum”, is known as the “black diamond” and has become one of the most valuable species. This year truffles are being sold in the Dordogne for as much as 850 euros a kilo and because they are a very capricious crop, prices can rise even higher when they are in short supply.

Truffles were originally hunted in the South-west of France using pigs, and more importantly sows, because pigs like to eat truffles. It is said that this is due to certain types of truffles producing a scent similar to that of the male pig’s sex hormone Androstenol. Androstenol is a sex pheromone which is a chemical that releases information to attract a mate. It is analogous to sex hormones and in a male pig, is found in its saliva. The chemical has an aphrodisiacal power that triggers a behavioural response in another member of the same species. A chemical derivative of Androstenol is found in truffles, which is why, some would say, a sow has a natural truffle radar and can sniff out truffles quickly and efficiently. The problem is that when the sow finds a truffle, she isn’t thinking of pleasing her owner. She will want to eat it herself.

Today dogs are more generally used because they are considered to be less trouble. They can be trained to sniff out truffles but not eat them. They are also a lot easier to get in the back of a car.

Sorges

Situated in the heart of truffle country, close to the medieval city of Périgueux, Sorges is the truffle capital of Le Périgord. On entering the village, huge road signs claim the region’s truffles to be the best in the world. In January the village organizes an annual “Fête de la truffe” (this year it was on 20 January) and a truffle-hunting dog competition take place in February.

There are 3 km of truffle grove footpaths to enjoy in the countryside surrounding Sorges. Here you can see for yourself the flora typical of a truffle grove as well as traditional stone “cabanes”. Access to the footpaths is free (with a ticket from the tourist office). Guided visits take place during July and August.

Truffle museum

Being the truffle capital of the Dordogne, Sorges boasts its very own truffle museum, “L’Ecomusée de la truffe”, which is housed in the “Maison de la truffe”. The museum offers a good introduction to the mysteries of the truffle and its cultivation : the type of soil truffles grow in, the different types of truffles, the Period truffle, the tools used to unearth them, research on truffles, the various truffle markets in the region and what truffles can be used for. There is also a film showing how truffles are hunted using dogs, information on the “Fédération des trufficulteurs”, how to buy a truffle or how to create and cultivate a truffle grove. Various products made from truffles are also on sale from truffle aperitifs, to sauces, vinegars, soups, mustards and even truffle ice cream. Souvenirs and books dedicated to truffles are on sale. Some, although not all, information is provided in English. A visit normally lasts for one hour. Open every day, except Mondays, from 10 am to midday and from 2 - 5 pm. In July and August open from 9.30 am to 12.30 pm and from 2.30 - 6.30 pm.

The museum also organises courses in truffle cultivation and is a documentation centre with over 700 works on truffles and truffle culture.

Truffle market

The truffle market at Sorges, “Le marché aux truffes des villages truffiers”, is one of many truffle markets that take place during the truffle season across the department of the Dordogne. It takes place every Sunday morning during December and January. The market is strictly controlled by experts belonging to the Federation of truffle cultivators, “La Fédération des trufficulteurs”. The market sells truffle plants as well as truffles. “Contrôleurs” decide on the category the morning’s truffles are put into which will determine the price they can be sold for. In January of this year the price for 1st category truffles was as high as 850€ a kilo. For 2nd category the price was 700-750 € a kilo. The market also has stalls selling duck products, oysters, fish and cheese.

Contact details for Sorges en Périgord :

Mairie
Tel : 05.53.35.68.00
Fax : 05.53.35.68.09

Ecomusée de la Truffe
Tel : 05.53.05.90.11
Fax : 05.53.46.71.43
www.truffe-sorges.org

Tags: market, truffle, local produce, food